Daitokuji Temple

Daitokuji (大徳寺) is a large, walled temple complex in northern Kyoto and the head temple of the Rinzai sect’s Daitokuji school of Japanese Zen Buddhism. The complex consists of nearly two dozen subtemples and is one of the best places in Japan to see a wide variety of Zen gardens and to experience Zen culture and architecture.

History

Daitokuji was founded in 1319 and, like most of Kyoto, suffered severe damage during the Onin War (1467-1477). After its reconstruction, the temple grew into a center of the tea ceremony and became associated with tea master Sen no Rikyu, as well as the warlords Oda Nobunaga and Toyotomi Hideyoshi, who were both fond of the way of tea. Oda Nobunaga’s grave is located at Sokenin, one of Daitokuji’s subtemples not regularly open to the public.

Main Buildings

Daitokuji’s main buildings (the Sanmon Gate, Butsuden Hall, Hatto Hall, and Hojo Residence) are lined up on the east side of the temple grounds according to the classical layout of a Zen monastery. They are not usually open to the public, though visitors may view into the interior of the Butsuden.

Open Subtemples

Daisenin — The head of the North School of Daitokuji, open year-round. Founded in 1509, it incorporates the oldest surviving example of a tokonoma alcove and features highly valued sliding doors (fusuma). Its rock gardens wrap around the temple building and are considered among the best examples of their kind — one is designed to resemble a Chinese landscape painting with vertical stones representing towering mountains, divided by white sand waterfalls and streams that appear to flow into an expansive ocean of white gravel. Hours: 9:00-17:00 (until 16:30 Dec-Feb); 500 yen.

Ryogenin — Headquarters of the South School, constructed in 1502. Its main building is said to be the oldest standing in Daitokuji. Features five different dry landscape gardens, including the largest with a field of raked white gravel representing the universe. Also displays sliding doors painted with dragons and hermits, and the oldest gun in Japan (1583). Hours: 9:00-16:30; 350 yen.

Zuihoin — Built in 1535 by a warlord from Kyushu who later converted to Christianity. The main garden features gravel raked in high-peaked patterns evoking rough seas, set with islands of sharp stones and moss. The rear garden has stones laid out in the pattern of a crucifix. Hours: 9:00-17:00; 400 yen.

Kotoin — Built in 1601, famous for its maple trees forming a vaulted canopy over the temple approach. Currently closed indefinitely.

Getting There

From Kyoto Station: bus numbers 205 or 206 to Daitokuji-mae (45 minutes, 230 yen), or bus number 9 to Kitaoji-Horikawa (30 minutes, 230 yen) then a 5-minute walk. Alternatively, take the Karasuma Subway Line to Kitaoji Station (13 minutes, 260 yen) then a short bus ride (230 yen) or 15-minute walk.