Eikando Temple

Eikando (永観堂), formally known as Zenrinji Temple, belongs to the Jodo sect of Japanese Buddhism. Located north of Nanzenji, Eikando is very famous for its autumn colors and the evening illuminations that take place in fall. The temple has a long history, and there are a variety of buildings and a pond garden that visitors can explore.

History

A court noble of the Heian Period (794-1185) donated his villa to a priest, who converted it into a temple under the name Zenrinji (lit. “temple in a calm grove”). When originally founded, Zenrinji belonged to the Shingon sect, and its first head priest was a disciple of the great Kobo Daishi.

In the 11th century, Zenrinji had a popular head priest named Eikan, after whom the temple is popularly named Eikando (lit. “Eikan Hall”). Eikan is credited with acquiring the temple’s main object of worship, an unusual statue of the Amida Buddha with his head turned sidewards. According to legend, Eikan was walking through the temple one day when the statue, which was originally facing forward, turned its head towards the priest and spoke to him.

In the 13th century, a later head priest converted the temple to the Jodo sect (Pure Land sect), as he had been greatly impressed by the sect’s founder Honen, whose mausoleum is located at the nearby Chionin Temple.

What to See

Eikando’s main buildings are built alongside the base of the hillside and connected by wooden corridors. The Shakado (Hall of the historical Buddha) features a small rock garden and beautifully painted sliding doors (fusuma). Walking through the corridors, visitors pass the Miedo (enshrining the Jodo sect’s founder Honen) and the Amidado (Amida Hall), which houses the famous sideward-facing Amida statue.

The most recognizable building is the Tahoto Pagoda, nestled in the trees on the hillside above the other buildings. This two-story structure (square first story, round second) offers views over the temple grounds and the city of Kyoto. The view is particularly attractive in autumn when the surrounding maples are changing color.

The Hojo Pond is another highlight, with a garden cultivated around it and small streams running through the temple grounds to the main pond. A small shrine sits on an island at the center.

Autumn Colors

Autumn colors are usually best in the second half of November, when the temple opens in the evenings for special illuminations — the lit maples reflecting in the Hojo Pond create one of Kyoto’s iconic fall images.

Getting There

A 15-20 minute walk from Keage Station on the Tozai Subway Line (20 minutes, 260 yen from Kyoto Station via Karasuma-Oike), or a 5-minute walk from Nanzenji-Eikando-michi bus stop (35 minutes, 230 yen from Kyoto Station by bus number 5). Also near the southern end of the Philosopher’s Path and a 5-minute walk from Nanzenji.

Hours and Admission

Open 9:00 to 17:00 (entry until 16:00). Autumn illuminations: 17:30 to 21:00 (entry until 20:30) from early November to early December. No closing days. Admission: 600 yen (increases to 1000 yen during autumn season; evening illuminations 700 yen separately).