Honen-in

The kind of temple that almost no tour buses reach. If the busier sights are wearing you out, take 20 minutes here on the way down the Philosopher’s Path.

Honen-in is named for the Buddhist monk Honen, founder of the Jodo (Pure Land) sect, who is said to have practiced nembutsu recitation at this spot in the late 12th century. The current buildings date from 1680 when the monk Bankei restored the site. The temple’s thatched sanmon gate — dark, low, set back from the path between stone walls — is one of the most visually arresting temple entrances in eastern Kyoto, especially when maple leaves frame it in autumn.

The two byakusadan sand mounds inside the gate are raked with seasonal designs — geometric in winter, floral in spring, wave patterns in summer — changed by resident monks as an expression of the liturgical calendar. The designs are subtle and often go unnoticed by people hurrying through. The narrow path through moss, maples, and mossy stone lanterns beyond the gate leads to the main hall and a camellia garden.

The Philosopher’s Path passes directly in front of Honen-in — the entrance is on a small lane about midway along the path, easy to miss. The area around the temple is noticeably quieter than the canal-side path itself. The temple hosts exhibitions of contemporary art in the main hall during the rare open days; schedules are posted at the entrance gate and worth checking before your visit. Free admission to the garden; a nominal fee during the open-hall periods.