Kokedera (Moss Temple)

Saihoji (西芳寺), more commonly known as Kokedera (苔寺, Moss Temple), is one of Kyoto’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Kokedera means “Moss Temple,” referring to the garden’s estimated 120 different varieties of moss that blanket the grounds in an extraordinary tapestry of green. The garden has strongly influenced subsequent Japanese garden design.

History

Kokedera was originally the site of Prince Shotoku’s villa before becoming a temple in the Nara Period. In 1339, the temple was renovated and converted into a Zen temple under the priest Muso Soseki, who is also credited with creating the gardens.

The Visit Experience

Kokedera offers a unique opportunity for visitors to participate in the temple’s religious activities. Every visitor is asked to contribute to the observances of kito and shakyo (chanting and copying of Buddhist scriptures, called sutra).

After entering the gates, visitors proceed directly to the temple to pay the entrance fee and begin the sutra copying. They take a seat at one of the low writing desks. A monk leads the room in sutra chanting, then the copying begins. When ready, visitors take their sutra paper to the altar and exit. Completing the entire activity may take over an hour and sitting on the floor for this length can be uncomfortable. However, copying the sutra is not as challenging as it may first sound — a tracing of the Japanese characters guides even those with no previous knowledge of Japanese calligraphy or Buddhism.

After the kito and shakyo, a stroll through the moss garden is not to be missed. The luminous green carpet of moss covering the ground under the trees creates a scene of otherworldly tranquility.

Winter Visits (Mid-January to February)

During winter, the garden is closed to allow it to rest and undergo maintenance. Instead, visitors can tour the temple’s main hall and see its many fusuma sliding screens adorned with paintings by 20th-century painter Domoto Insho. Instead of copying a sutra, visitors can participate in zazen meditation.

Reservations

All visits require advance reservation. Online applications are available on the official English reservation system for dates from two months before the visit until the day before. Some special visiting programs with additional activities at higher costs are offered on selected days. Reservations by postal mail require sending a request 1-2 months before the intended date. All visitors must be at least 13 years old. Admission: 4000 yen, plus a 110 yen service fee for online reservations.

Getting There

A 20-minute walk from Matsuo Taisha Station on the Hankyu Arashiyama Line. From Kyoto Station: take the Karasuma Subway Line to Shijo Station (3 minutes), transfer to the Hankyu Kyoto Line to Katsura Station (8 minutes), then switch to the Hankyu Arashiyama Line to Matsuo Taisha Station (5 minutes). Total about 30 minutes, 460 yen. Alternatively, Kyoto Bus number 73 runs 1-3 times per hour from Kyoto Station via Arashiyama (1 hour, 230 yen, not covered by the 1-day bus pass; likely delayed on busy days due to Arashiyama congestion).