Senso-ji

The spiritual heart of the old Low City. Wafting incense from the central burner is said to cure ailments — locals fan the smoke onto the part of their body that hurts.

Approaching from Kaminarimon along Nakamise-dori is the postcard route. The shopping street is touristy but legitimately old, lined with vendors selling ningyo-yaki and senbei. Worth doing once.

For the photograph without the human wall, come back at night.

The origin legend dates to 628 AD: two brothers fishing in the Sumida River pulled out a small golden statue of Kannon, the goddess of mercy. They returned it to the river; it kept coming back. A temple was built nearby, making Senso-ji Tokyo’s oldest temple by several centuries. The Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate) with its enormous red lantern is the most photographed gateway in Tokyo — the lantern hangs between statues of the thunder and wind gods. The Nakamise shopping approach behind it, stretching over 200 meters to the Hozomon inner gate, sells traditional local snacks (ningyo-yaki, ningyoyaki, senbei crackers, melon bread) alongside the usual tourist merchandise.

The temple proper — the main hall and five-story pagoda — is accessible 24 hours. The approach shops and Nakamise close by evening, which is precisely when the crowds drain and the buildings come into their own. The incense burner (jokoro) in front of the main hall is the center of daily ritual: visitors fan smoke over themselves, and the queue to do so is constant during daylight hours.

Hours: Main hall 6:00–17:00 (from 6:30 October–March); temple grounds always open. Admission: Free. Access: Asakusa Station (Ginza Line, Asakusa Line, Tobu Railway) — the temple is a few steps from any exit.